Vive le Carnaval de Nice

When most Americans hear the term Mardi Gras, they think of the wild partying that goes on in New Orleans on the day before Ash Wednesday. However, Mardi Gras is part of a season of partying that takes place in the Crescent City, and it’s just as popular in other parts of the world. The festival dates back to the thirteenth century in Nice, France, which is considered one of the first cities to hold the event.

If you’re looking for a fun winter getaway in a mild climate, Carnaval season is an excellent time to visit the South of France. It usually runs from late February to early March, when temperatures are in the upper 50s to low 60s, and the sun is generally shining. While the price of lodging is higher than the rest of winter, it’s still cheaper than the summer months. In addition, flights are much cheaper, and other than Carnaval events, crowds are significantly thinner. While the temperature is not quite high enough for sunbathing, it’s still nice enough to enjoy a stroll or a bike ride on the Promendae des Anglais, the pedestrian area that runs along the sea. You can also relax with a picnic on the beach or a drink at one of the beachfront cafés.

Performers at the Bataille de Fleurs

The Carnaval experience

Carnaval is fun for both adults and kids. The festival starts off with opening ceremonies on a Friday night at Place Masséna, one of the most beautiful squares in Europe. People come from miles around to enjoy the circus performers, music, dancing, fireworks and super-charged atmosphere. Throughout Carnaval, visitors can attend daily events until the closing ceremony, including the nighttime parades called the Carnavalesque Illuminés or the daytime Batailles de Fleurs, which are best described as a scaled-back version of the American Rose Parade.

Carnaval traditions
While Carnaval in Nice and Mardi Gras in New Orleans are held for the same reasons, the traditions are a bit different. 

Mardi Gras mask

• You won’t find women exposing themselves for beads in Nice, but everyone in the crowd will try to catch the flowers thrown from the floats during the Bataille de Fleurs.
• On Mardi Gras, New Orleanians enjoy king cake, but in France, this treat is served on January 6, the feast of the Epiphany. Pancakes are common for dinner in both cities, but in Nice, where they are known as crêpes, they are flat and stuffed with meat and vegetables. Dessert crêpes are sweet and covered with a variety of toppings, including fruit, jelly, Nutella or powdered sugar. Fried dough, similar to the beignets found in New Orleans are another Mardi Gras treat sold in all the bakeries in Nice.
• Whether you are in new Orleans, Nice or any other city that celebrates Mardi Gras season, you will find the famous Mardi Gras masks and fun-loving people dressed in crazy costumes.
• In addition to throwing confetti, spraying silly string at other Carnaval-goers is a popular tradition in Nice. Since there are vendors selling cans on almost every corner, it’s easy to join in the fun.

More interesting Carnaval facts

• At least 75 percent of the plants and flowers that cover the floats that participate in the daily Bataille de Fleurs parades in Nice are grown in the region. The floats cover the parade route several times until the people aboard them have tossed all of the flowers to the crowd.
• Most of the parade participants are circus and carnival performers who come from other parts of Europe and the rest of the world.
• Carnaval attracts more than a million visitors every year.
• Many neighborhoods throughout the city throw their own traditional celebrations throughout Carnaval season. Schedules are available throughout the city.

Bataille de Fleurs, Villefranche

If you're going to Carnaval, you can also enjoy some nearby festivals that take place at the same time:

• The Lemon Festival, which celebrates the special lemons grown in the area, takes place in Menton, a lovely city about 30 minutes from Nice by train. 
• Villefranche sur Mer, a stunning seaside village five minutes by train from  Nice, has a one-day Bataile de Fleurs that takes pace on the waterfront. Ask for the date at the tourist office. 

Ready to go?
Carnaval season ends this year on March 6, but it takes place every year, so you can start panning for next year. The Nice Convention and Visitors Bureau has produced a website with plenty of information on this year’s Carnaval, and it should be updated for 2014 in a few months.

If you're looking for lodging, be sure to read my previous post on renting an apartment.

Eat and Drink Your Way Through Old Nice

As the days grow shorter and colder at my home in the mid-Atlantic, I fondly reminisce about my time in my tiny apartment in Old Nice just a few months ago. I miss feeling like a part of the neighborhood and  wandering through the tiny streets, discovering new shops, galleries and cafés along the way. If you are lucky enough to visit Nice yourself, be sure to make time to visit Vieux Nice, the old town, where you’ll find some of the tastiest food and wine in the world. And a lot of it is even good for you.

When someone refers to Niçoise cuisine, you probably think of Niçoise salad; however, that’s just one dish on a long list of this city’s specialties. While Nice is located in the heart of the lavish French Riviera, its cuisine evolved when the region was controlled by Italy, and the majority of its inhabitants were poor. Therefore, the primary ingredients are grown or caught in the area, and they are always fresh. Local olives and olive oils, cheese, zucchini, tomatoes, herbs de Provence and fish are easy to find at the daily market on the Cours Saleya.

Where to go

Beside the market, here is a list of some of the can’t-miss spots that will give you a true taste of Niçoise cuisine.

Alziari

Alziari Moulin à Huile, 14 rue St. Francis de Paule (near the Opera)

This shop is known for its olive oil, which has been produced for more than 150 years. In addition, you can find honey, spices and wine here.

Coté-Vin

This wine shop is next to Alziari, so be sure to stop in and buy a few ice bags, a thick plastic bag that doubles as portable wine chiller and is perfect for picnics and parties. It makes a great souvenir for friends who like wine, and it’s easy to pack.

Bistrot Antoine, 27 rue de la Préfecture, (0)4 93 85 29 57 (past the Palais de Justice)

This small restaurant is frequented by the locals, which usually means you can’t go wrong. The menu is definitely not geared toward vegetarians, but there are some fish dishes. Prices are reasonable, and it’s always crowded, so reservations are a must. The restaurant is closed Sunday and Monday.

Les Distilleries Idéales, 24 rue de la Préfecture

This is one of the best happy hour spots in Nice. Small tables outside are the ideal place to sip on a draft beer or a glass of local wine and watch the world go by. Inside, you’ll find large televisions airing sports in a pub-like atmosphere.

Caves Caprioglio, 23 rue de la Préfecture

If you’re looking for a great bargain, visit this wine shop. Bring in your own bottle, and have it filled with the house rosé or red for only €1.90. Speaking of rosé, this isn’t the rosé that’s considered undrinkable by connoisseurs. In fact, it’s a specialty of the region. If you like wine, be sure to try some while you’re here.  

Pizza Pili, rue du Collet and 24 Rue Benoît Bunico 

Nothing goes with cheap wine like cheap pizza, and Pizza Pili doesn’t disappoint. For €6.50, you can get a large pizza loaded with toppings. There are about a dozen varieties, including my favorite, the Provencal, which overflows with vegetables. Like other pizzerias in Italy and France, this dish has thin crust and creamy cheese, and I find it more delicious than the American version. If you plan to go to Pizza Pili, be sure to avoid the rush around 8:00, the traditional French dinner time. Also, there are only a few tables on the street, so it’s best to count on taking the pizza back to your hotel.

Fenocchio, Place Rosetti
Known as the best ice cream in Nice, Fenocchio boasts more than 100 flavors ranging from the everyday chocolate and vanilla to the exotic, including basil, cactus, oregano, beer and zucchini. Enjoy your treat and the view of St. Réparate cathedral, which dates back to the eleventh century, in this bustling but beautiful square.

Chez Juliette

Chez Juliette, 1 rue Rosetti, (0)4 93 92 68 47

The food at this tiny restaurant off Place Rosetti is only matched by its charm. I passed this place quite often since it was around the corner from my apartment, and it was always packed. When I stopped in to eat shortly after it opened one night, the outside dining area was already full, so I settled for a table inside, but I was not disappointed, thanks to the shabby chic décor and impeccable service. The menu included local favorites, including petit farcis, a dish made of vegetables stuffed with meat. Whether you’re with friends or on a date, Chez Juliette this is a delight in dining. Just be sure you arrive when it opens at 7 or make a reservation.

Local flavor

You can find several restaurants in Old Nice that serve local dishes. Here is what to look for:

Petits farcis: vegetables, such as red peppers, eggplant and zucchini stuffed with ground meat, parmesan cheese and olive oil.

Tarte aux blettes or tourte de blettes: tarte made with swiss chard, a vegetable similar to spinach and kale. You can order it either sucré or salée. Sucré means that it’s sweet, which makes a delicious dessert. Salée is salty, making it a delicious appetizer or main dish that is similar to spinach pie found on Greek menus.

Socca bread: made of chickpea flour and olive oil, it’s simple and filling.    

Pissaladière: an appetizer similar to pizza, it is topped with anchovies and caramelized onions.

Tapenade: puréed or finely chopped olives, capers, anchovies and olive oil. Spread it on bread and serve as an hors d’oeuvre. A similar recipe is caviar d’aubergines, which is made of puréed eggplant and olive oil, but has no caviar. 

Bon appétit!

Get Credit for Foreign Travel

If you’ve been reading my blog, you know that I recently returned from a fabulous trip to the South of France. One of the best parts of staying in Nice is that the train runs along the coast, so it’s easy to visit the many beautiful villages on the Côte d’Azur. One of the worst parts is waiting in the long lines at the station’s ticket windows. 

It's easy to visit the villages near Nice. 

If you don’t have time to spare, there are machines that dispense tickets for the regional trains if you have a basket of change or a credit card. The problem for most Americans, though, is that they usually can’t come up with enough coins, and the machines won’t accept their credit card.

While the U.S. is known for advanced technology, we are way behind when it comes to credit cards. The chip and PIN cards, which are standard in Europe, are virtually unknown here. Chip and PIN is supposed to be more secure because like the name says, there is a small chip on the front, and users must often key in a security code to complete the purchase. Foreign merchants still do accept American cards, so don’t worry if you want to use yours overseas. However, be aware that standard cards aren’t accepted in certain cases, like at the ticket machine and at toll booths. You might also come across some people who don’t know how to process your card, as I did. Luckily, her boss was able to handle it because I would have been really disappointed if I had been unable to buy that cute top.

Knowing the difficulty I would face when paying at certain places in Europe, I was pretty excited when I heard that Bank of America introduced a card with chip technology this summer. I had to learn more. When I spoke to the sales rep, he told me that the BankAmericard Travel Rewards card offers some other nifty benefits. There is no foreign transaction fee and unlike British Air’s chip card, there is no annual fee. While the card doesn’t offer the PIN that European cards do, I decided to take my chances.

The third weekend of September is the weekend of patrimony in France, meaning that most of the cultural institutions offer free admission to encourage the French to discover their culture. You can also buy a Carte Isabelle train ticket valid for travel all day throughout the region for a mere 5€; it’s usually 14€. That Sunday, my friend and I had decided to take the train to St. Raphael, where we would take a ferry to St. Tropez. With the line for the ticket agents stretching out the door, I crossed my fingers and joined the line at the machine. When it was my turn, I punched in my request for two aller-retour tickets, inserted my credit card and held my breath. Accepted! I was ready to go. Unfortunately, the train wouldn’t leave for another hour, and we’d have to wait another hour for the ferry, but at least we spent that hour relaxing in a café rather than standing in line, so I was glad for my card.

This is not an endorsement of Bank of America, nor any of its credit cards, and I have received no compensation from any credit card company for this article. 

Back to School

Wondering where I've been lately? No, I haven't been slacking off. In fact, I've been quite busy attending French classes in Nice. If you're looking for a great way to learn and practice a language, taking a vacation at a foreign language school offers many opportunities.

The school provides affordable housing options with a host or a family, which enables you to practice the language in an everyday setting and learn first-hand about the local culture. You even have the option to pay a little extra for dinner and/or breakfast with your host.

The schools screen hosts, but some can be a nightmare, like the one who had me sleep in the living room, or the one who would only let me come out of my room for dinner, which was usually no more than a bowl of green beans or a boiled egg. However, there are some great ones, like Solange, who included my classmates in family gatherings and even went out for dinner and drinks with some of us. If you are unhappy with your host, you can always ask the school to find you another place to stay.

If you don't want to take the risk, the school can also recommend a studio apartment or nearby hotel. After a few bad experiences in the past, I opted to rent an apartment on my own, mostly because I knew exactly where I wanted to stay, and because I planned to remain in Nice after the class.

If you want to look into classes, start with EF International or Apple Languages. Use their sites to select the language you want to study, your preferred city, housing preferences and any other options. For example, I chose the program that included morning lessons and afternoon excursions.

On the first day of class, you will normally take a placement test and be placed in a class, typically no larger than ten students, based on your level of knowledge. Generally, schools don't accept beginners, but you can always take an intro class at home before you go. Most community colleges offer non-credit classes for adults.

Besides learning more about French language and culture, I was also happy to find out more about the countries where the other students live. I also enjoyed going out with them for a glass of wine after the excursions and exploring nearby villages with them on the weekend. Since most students attend  the school on their own, everyone is looking for someone to hang out with, so there's no need to worry about being lonely or bored, even if you're shy. In fact, I actually made several new friends.

Oh, and according to my certificate, I am finally ready to proceed to advanced level French. C'est bon!

Cash or Credit? You Need Both for Overseas Travel

It’s officially summer, and a lot of people I know are planning vacations that range from a budget-friendly week in their own town to a month in Europe. As a veteran of several overseas adventures, I know first-hand about the additional challenges that travelers encounter in foreign countries. One of the biggest concerns about overseas travel is money. By following these tips when preparing for your trip abroad, you can face a little less stress and save a lot of money when you’re on the road.

Take Credit. How are you going to pay for your hotel, meals, souvenirs and other expenses if the country doesn’t accept American dollars? Years ago, travelers’ checks were the only option, but many establishments no longer accept them, and there are exorbitant fees for exchanging them, so they really aren’t a viable option anymore. I know of some travelers who rely solely on a preloaded travel card that works like a credit card, but it’s not going to be of any use when you’re trying to buy a one-of-a-kind piece of art from a street vendor. In addition, a poor exchange rate and additional fees make this an expensive way to pay.  A credit card is still a necessity when traveling because it’s never a good idea to carry a large amount of cash. Most credit cards smack a foreign currency conversion fee onto each purchase, usually about three percent of the amount charged. Some can add an additional flat fee for each transaction. To avoid these costs, sign up for a card that doesn’t charge foreign currency conversion fees, like CapitalOne and certain Chase cards. Note that CapitalOne doesn’t charge an annual fee either.

Money talks. While credit cards come in handy, cash is sometimes the only option. Since many countries have an advanced smart chip feature, merchants may not know how to use the American cards with the magnetic strip, and some train stations do not accept these cards. It’s possible to get an American card with smart chip technology – Chase offers a few – but the annual fee is at least $95.

While many larger banks and AAA offer foreign currency, avoid the urge to buy it in the United States, even a small amount. Likewise, don’t buy it in change offices when you arrive at your destination. These places offer a terrible exchange rate and usually add additional fees. You most economical way to get cash is at an ATM. As long as you have a four-digit personal identification number that is all numbers, you should never have a problem. Note that the card usually has to be hooked up to your checking account rather than a money market or savings account. If your card is hooked up to more than one type of account, the money will come from your checking account, and you will not have the option to transfer money between accounts at a foreign ATM. You may be charged a fee for taking money from a foreign ATM, usually $5 to $7, so be sure to take as much as you feel comfortable with rather than using the ATM every day if you are trying to avoid fees. Check with your bank to determine your daily ATM limit and fees. Note that Bank of America customers are not subject to fees when using ATMs at its sister banks in foreign countries.

Before you leave, be sure to call your credit card company and your bank to let them know where and when you will be traveling. If you forget to do this, the company will put a freeze on your card the first time you use it in a foreign country. If that happens, you will have to call the company to straighten it out if you hope to use the card again. Save yourself the time and the cost of an expensive phone call and make arrangements before you leave. Be sure to take the international phone numbers to your bank when you travel just in case something happens.

Finally, do I really need to tell you to keep your cards and cash secure when you travel? Pickpockets can be clever, so think twice before you strap on a backpack that contains your wallet or stuffing your cash in your back pocket. You don’t want to treat a thief to a souvenir of your vacation.