Vive le Carnaval de Nice

When most Americans hear the term Mardi Gras, they think of the wild partying that goes on in New Orleans on the day before Ash Wednesday. However, Mardi Gras is part of a season of partying that takes place in the Crescent City, and it’s just as popular in other parts of the world. The festival dates back to the thirteenth century in Nice, France, which is considered one of the first cities to hold the event.

If you’re looking for a fun winter getaway in a mild climate, Carnaval season is an excellent time to visit the South of France. It usually runs from late February to early March, when temperatures are in the upper 50s to low 60s, and the sun is generally shining. While the price of lodging is higher than the rest of winter, it’s still cheaper than the summer months. In addition, flights are much cheaper, and other than Carnaval events, crowds are significantly thinner. While the temperature is not quite high enough for sunbathing, it’s still nice enough to enjoy a stroll or a bike ride on the Promendae des Anglais, the pedestrian area that runs along the sea. You can also relax with a picnic on the beach or a drink at one of the beachfront cafés.

Performers at the Bataille de Fleurs

The Carnaval experience

Carnaval is fun for both adults and kids. The festival starts off with opening ceremonies on a Friday night at Place Masséna, one of the most beautiful squares in Europe. People come from miles around to enjoy the circus performers, music, dancing, fireworks and super-charged atmosphere. Throughout Carnaval, visitors can attend daily events until the closing ceremony, including the nighttime parades called the Carnavalesque Illuminés or the daytime Batailles de Fleurs, which are best described as a scaled-back version of the American Rose Parade.

Carnaval traditions
While Carnaval in Nice and Mardi Gras in New Orleans are held for the same reasons, the traditions are a bit different. 

Mardi Gras mask

• You won’t find women exposing themselves for beads in Nice, but everyone in the crowd will try to catch the flowers thrown from the floats during the Bataille de Fleurs.
• On Mardi Gras, New Orleanians enjoy king cake, but in France, this treat is served on January 6, the feast of the Epiphany. Pancakes are common for dinner in both cities, but in Nice, where they are known as crêpes, they are flat and stuffed with meat and vegetables. Dessert crêpes are sweet and covered with a variety of toppings, including fruit, jelly, Nutella or powdered sugar. Fried dough, similar to the beignets found in New Orleans are another Mardi Gras treat sold in all the bakeries in Nice.
• Whether you are in new Orleans, Nice or any other city that celebrates Mardi Gras season, you will find the famous Mardi Gras masks and fun-loving people dressed in crazy costumes.
• In addition to throwing confetti, spraying silly string at other Carnaval-goers is a popular tradition in Nice. Since there are vendors selling cans on almost every corner, it’s easy to join in the fun.

More interesting Carnaval facts

• At least 75 percent of the plants and flowers that cover the floats that participate in the daily Bataille de Fleurs parades in Nice are grown in the region. The floats cover the parade route several times until the people aboard them have tossed all of the flowers to the crowd.
• Most of the parade participants are circus and carnival performers who come from other parts of Europe and the rest of the world.
• Carnaval attracts more than a million visitors every year.
• Many neighborhoods throughout the city throw their own traditional celebrations throughout Carnaval season. Schedules are available throughout the city.

Bataille de Fleurs, Villefranche

If you're going to Carnaval, you can also enjoy some nearby festivals that take place at the same time:

• The Lemon Festival, which celebrates the special lemons grown in the area, takes place in Menton, a lovely city about 30 minutes from Nice by train. 
• Villefranche sur Mer, a stunning seaside village five minutes by train from  Nice, has a one-day Bataile de Fleurs that takes pace on the waterfront. Ask for the date at the tourist office. 

Ready to go?
Carnaval season ends this year on March 6, but it takes place every year, so you can start panning for next year. The Nice Convention and Visitors Bureau has produced a website with plenty of information on this year’s Carnaval, and it should be updated for 2014 in a few months.

If you're looking for lodging, be sure to read my previous post on renting an apartment.

Cinque Terre Travel Tips

Riomaggiore

Cinque Terre, the five cliffside villages on the Italian Riviera is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and an entry on the bucket list of many travelers. If you’re going to Italy, it’s worth the effort to make side trip to the Ligurian region, where you can enjoy the spectacular natural beauty of this national park as well as the scenic villages of Santa Margherita and Portofino, which are about an hour away by train.

Getting there

Most travelers find the most affordable way to arrive in Italy is to take a plane to Rome. From there, you can rent a car and drive from city to city on your own schedule. You can also take the train, which takes about seven hours. The closest major city is Genoa, about two hours away by train.

Where to stay

Hotel Italia in Rapallo

To get a better view of the entire region, I searched online for a hotel in Santa Margherita. While there are plenty of hotels in this town, they tend to be rather pricey, so I settled on Hotel Italia e Lido  in Rapallo, the quiet seaside village next to Santa Margherita. I was thrilled with my choice. A five-minute walk from the train station, the hotel is on the seaside overlooking a small castle built to defend the village against pirates in the fifteenth century. Rooms are clean and comfortable, and there’s even a free hot breakfast buffet and wifi in public areas. Since I was traveling in September, the hotel was not fully booked, so I got a free upgrade to a sea-view room, where I enjoyed my evenings sitting on the small terrace sipping wine and tasting cheese from the nearby shop. Talk about la dolce vita!

From Rapallo, you can take the bus or small boat that runs throughout the day to Santa Margherita and Portofino. I recommend walking along the seaside to Santa Margherita, which takes about 30 minutes to an hour, depending on how often you stop for pictures. Just be sure you walk before sunset because there is a stretch without a sidewalk that can be pretty dangerous after dark.

Note that there are no roads in some of the villages, so it’s best to take a train. To go from Rapallo to Cinque Terre, take the train to Riomaggiore, the farthest village, which takes about an hour. You can also take a boat that will stop in one or two of the villages, but if you want to walk from village to village, or if you want to see all the villages, the only option is to take the train. Schedules are posted in all the stations. If you’re coming from the east, take the train from LaSpezia.

Seeing Cinque Terre

Lunch in Riomaggiore

Plan to spend at least a full day visiting Cinque Terre, especially if you are hiking between the villages. When you get off the train at Riomaggiore, you will find a tourist information window outside the station, where you can ask for a map. If you want to do the hike, you will climb some stairs to the starting point, where you will buy you ticket (€5). Before starting the hike, be sure to visit this fascinating village. You can either take a short walk through the tunnel from the train station or wander around the side of the cliff, which offers a spectacular view of the harbor and sea. If you have difficulty with stairs, be sure to take the tunnel. For a treat, stop for lunch at one of the cafés overlooking the harbor. You can also find picnic fixings in some of the shops and have lunch along the seaside.

If you don’t have time to visit all the villages, be sure to make a stop in Vernazza. This scenic village has a lovely harbor and beach, a delightful place to stop at a café for a glass of wine, some ice cream or a meal. You can also climb up the cliff to visit an old castle and enjoy the view of the sea and the town below.

Note that when you buy your train tickets to and from Riomaggiore, you can use them for up to six hours from the time you validate them.

Other Sites to See

Porto Venere

Not far from the Cinque Terre area is Porto Venere, a scenic village with tiny streets, ancient ruins, a beautiful port and seaside cafés. Some say this village is more beautiful than Cinque Terre. Be sure to visit and decide for yourself. The ferry that runs among the villages of Cinque Terre also visits Porto Venere. In addition, you can take a boat on a day trip from the same place where you pick up the boats that operate in Rapallo and Santa Margherita. This cruise includes commentary in Italian and English, and it makes a brief stop in one of the villages in Cinque Terre. This cruise isn’t available every day, so be sure to stop by the ticket booth to find out when it runs. Also, if the captain decides the sea is too rough, the cruise will be canceled, so tickets are only sold shortly before the boat departs.

The first time I tried to take the cruise, it was canceled, but I quickly and easily made it to the train station, bought a ticket to Riomaggiore and found my way there. I met several other people who were making the same journey, so we found our way together and ended up running into each other throughout the day.

After wearing yourself down in Cinque Terre, you can take a relaxing stroll through the towns of Rapallo, Santa Margherita, Portofino and Frutuosso. Again, it’s simple to take the boats, which run about once an hour. Just be sure to check the schedule to avoid getting stranded in another town. Depending on what you want to see and do, covering these towns will take a day or two.

More Tips

• Cafés and restaurants in Italy have a cover charge for table service. The fee is generally about €1.50 per person, but runs around €3 in some places like Portofino, a more popular spot on the Italian Riviera. In fact, everything in Portofino costs a lot more, so if you’re trying to save money, don’t plan to eat here.
• Be sure to stroll up the hill above Portofino to visit the Church of St. George and Castello Brown. If you still have any energy, hike out to the lighthouse.
• Buying train tickets in smaller Italian towns can be a challenge if you don’t speak the language. I have yet to find a ticket seller who speaks anything but Italian. If you’re lucky, you can find another person in line who speaks English and will help you translate. Otherwise, you can write down the name of the town where you’re going. If the ticket window is closed, you can use the machine, which offers information in English, but you will need a credit card with chip and PIN technology.
• Before boarding the train, you must validate your ticket by placing it in the small device usually found just outside the ticket office. If you present a ticket that hasn’t been validated to the conductor, you could be thrown off the train and face an expensive fine.
• Be sure to try pansotti cum salsa di noci, a specialty of the Ligurian region recommended by someone who grew up in the area. It’s a mild ravioli-like pasta with walnut sauce, and it’s delicious.

If you’ve visited the Ligurian region of Italy, please share any additional tips you have for other travelers. If you haven’t been there, but would like to go, feel free to post your questions, and I’ll be happy to respond. 

See more of my photos from Italy.

The Wine’tastic Mile Is Baltimore’s Latest Attraction

The Wine'tastic Mile sign was unveiled 12/12/12.

Many cities are known for a street that has become a tourist attraction: Broadway in New York, Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, Bourbon Street in New Orleans, the Champs-Elysées in Paris. When Derrick Vaughn thought about all the fine restaurants along Baltimore’s Pratt Street, the road that runs along the Inner Harbor, he decided to take on the project of marketing the area as a wining and dining destination, giving both visitors and locals another reason to visit the downtown area of Charm City.

In June of this year, Vaughn launched the Wine’tastic Mile to promote the 1.3-mile stretch of Pratt Street from Martin Luther King Boulevard to Harbor East with a wine walk and the approval of the City of Baltimore. The organization’s activities include setting up events, such as wine tastings and food and wine pairings at participating sites for individuals and groups.

Vaughn, who has extensive experience in fine food and wine, has a vested interest in making the Wine’tastic Mile a hit. He owns and operates the charming and popular Corner Bistro and Wine Bar in Ridgely’s Delight, where the Wine’tastic Mile begins. 

Based on his success with the restaurant, things are looking good for Downtown Baltimore diners and wine lovers. I’m looking forward to swirling down Pratt Street.

Sweet Holiday Treat: The Union Square Cookie Tour

Like every large city, my town of Baltimore has its holiday traditions: the lighting of the Washington Monument, the Mayor’s Parade, the Santa House and the nationally acclaimed Miracle on 34th Street. This Sunday, December 9, the community of Union Square will hold its 27^th annual Holiday Cookie Tour at which guests will tour about 20 homes throughout the neighborhood, receiving a homemade cookie at each house.

Scene from the Cookie Tour

Walking through this southwest Baltimore neighborhood, which is on the National Registration of Historic Places and was once home to H.L. Mencken, is a special experience on any day. The Victorian streetscape is comprised of huge houses in Federal, Greek Revival and Italianate architecture. During the tour, visitors have the opportunity to enjoy the true creativity of homeowners, which is exemplified inside the houses. With styles ranging from traditional Victorian to ultra modern, all of them look like they are straight out of a magazine. That makes each house a must-see, even for those who aren’t in it for the cookies.

If the stunning architecture isn’t enough, meeting the friendly folks of Union Square is a treat in itself. All the hosts are happy to welcome guests and answer questions about the history of their houses, the renovations and the neighborhood in general.   

The Cookie Tour is a major event in Union Square. Participating homeowners spend months making repairs and updates to their homes, and they bake enough cookies to serve each of their 500 guests. All of the proceeds from the tour go to the community association, which plans neighborhood beautification projects, including the recently restored fountain and community Christmas tree in the park.   

A lot of work goes into making the Cookie Tour a successful event that both the neighborhood and visitors are happy to continue, from recruiting volunteers to open their homes to printing the guidebooks to promoting the event to setting up the ticket office. Surprisingly, Chairperson Fran Rahl says that he and his committee of only about a half dozen handled it all after only one meeting.

Tickets for the Union Square are $20 per person and are available for cash or check at 1401 Hollins Street, beginning at 11:30 on the day of the tour. They are also available online at a discounted rate until Saturday. If you buy online, bring your receipt to 1401 Hollins to pick up your guidebook, which includes a map of the houses on the tour and serves as your ticket.

This event is a win-win situation. Not only do you get to spend the afternoon getting into the Christmas spirit, but you can get a pile of delicious homemade cookies without setting foot in the kitchen. Count me in.

Finding the Heart of New Orleans Outside the French Quarter

Last week, I took a trip “down yonder to Old New Orleans” after finding great deals for travel on off days during the holiday week. I am happy to report that this vacation spot is better than ever after Katrina. With the Super Bowl coming to the Crescent City this February, the city is hard at work repaving roads, upgrading the streetcar system and making other improvements to infrastructure. The shops and galleries of the French Quarter, the main draw for tourists, are open now that most of the proprietors have returned after the storm.

Heart NOLA

When I first visited New Orleans, the main attraction for me was the historic architecture of the Vieux Carré, which reflects the French, Spanish and Caribbean people who originally settled in the city. If you visit during the week, especially after Mardi Gras or in the fall, it’s possible to take a pleasant stroll down quiet streets and enjoy the mild weather. After having my fill of café au lait and beignets at Café du Monde as well as the stumbling drunks and cover bands of Bourbon Street, I decided to venture out of the French Quarter to discover what goes on outside the tourist zone. That’s how I discovered that the true strength of New Orleans is its people.

Cross the border of the French Quarter at Rampart Street, and you’ll enter Tremé, which is considered to be the first black neighborhood in America. Many famous musicians were born in the Tremé, and it’s even considered the birthplace of jazz. It’s also the site of the recently renovated Louis Armstrong Park and Congo Square, where slaves used to gather on Sundays to play music and dance. If you ask anybody in the French Quarter, they’ll warn you not to go to the Tremé. Maybe they say that to keep the visitors spending money in the tourist area, or maybe it’s because I’ve lived in Baltimore for so long, but I felt completely comfortable walking around the neighborhood during the day. Everyone I passed said hello or made friendly conversation, making me feel welcome.

Backstreet Cultural Museum

If you are uncomfortable visiting Tremé alone, French Quarter Phantoms offers a wonderful two-hour tour. My guide was Emelie, who provided a wealth of information on the history and culture of the area and seemed to know everyone we passed. Since I was the only one on the tour, I felt more like I was hanging out with a friend than playing tourist.

After finishing the tour, I returned to the Backstreet Cultural Museum, which tells the story of the Mardi Gras Indians and other groups that make the culture of New Orleans so interesting. Mr. Francis, who founded the museum, is a delightful man, who enjoys telling personal tales about the people who donated the memorabilia. Although the museum only has two rooms, I spent more than an hour there, fascinated by the intricate work of the Indian costumes and his stories.

Wanting to experience the true music of New Orleans, I visited Kermit Ruffins’ Tremé Speakeasy at 1535 Basin Street after reading about his new restaurant in a local entertainment magazine. On Monday nights, this cozy restaurant offers a delicious, affordable meal and an amazing set by Kermit and friends that starts around 6:30 p.m. Etiquette in New Orleans calls for any musicians in the house to get up and play with the band, so a long list of people were called onstage to perform, even some of the servers.  Since there are only about ten tables, early arrivers invite the late-comers to fill in the empty seats, making it a great way to meet people. By the end of the set, everyone in the room was dancing together and tossing balloons around like old friends. It felt more like being welcomed to a house party than hanging out in a bar. You don’t find that friendly, laid back attitude in the North.

A typical night on Frenchmen Street

After all that fun, it was barely 9:00, and the night had barely begun. The couple next to me invited me along to hear more music on Frenchmen Street, the area next to the French Quarter where the locals go to hear the best jazz. How could I refuse? I suddenly found myself in a cab with this former scout for the Texas Rangers, his newly divorced girlfriend, Kenny Terry of the Tremé Brass Band and several other groups and his lady friend Raynette. While I normally wouldn’t get into a car with strangers, Raynette assured me that if they were murderers, she could stop the bleeding because she is a registered nurse. I had nothing to worry about because we had a blast popping in and out of clubs and dancing while Kenny joined the bands onstage. Kenny and Mike, the guy who invited me along, seemed to know everybody and introduced me around like they had known me for ages, or at least more than a few hours. I felt like a regular, and I liked it. When the night finally came to an end, Mike and his girlfriend even walked me back to my bed and breakfast.  

Laissez les bons temps rouler!

Check out more of my photos of New Orleans.

Leaving on a Jet Plane, Didn’t Know When I’d Get Home Again

Old Town Nice

Like all good things, my dream vacation in the South of France had to come to an end. As it turns out, however, my journey lasted longer than I had anticipated. On Monday morning, I bid adieu to my charming little hovel and the old couple who used to call “bonjour madame” from the window below my apartment when they saw me leaving, which made me feel like a regular part of this vibrant quarter of Vieux Nice. I dragged my bags full of French books, chocolate and savon de Marseille onto the bus and gazed at the sea like a convict headed to prison as the vehicle made its way to the airport.

When I arrived at the British Airways desk to check my bag, the perky agent informed me that my flight to London would be very late, but if I could wait for a bit, she’s check to see if there was room on the prior flight. A few minutes later, just as cheerfully as she had offered to help find me another flight, she informed me that it was full, so she’d  just check me in for my original flight and I could speak to Customer Service to figure out my options.

Next stop: Customer Service. After waiting for some other disgruntled customers from my flight, I put on my best polite French voice and asked the agent how I could get back to Baltimore since I’d probably miss my connecting flight. This woman was not so cheerful. She told me I’d just have to take the later flight to Dulles because after all, it’s still Washington.   

I guess someone with a long line of tired, frantic customers who has never been to DC doesn’t understand, or more likely just doesn’t care that when you live in Baltimore, flying to Washington-Dulles instead of Baltimore-Washington Airport is just as inconvenient as going to Philadelphia, New York or Atlanta. I tried to explain that you just can’t land at Dulles at 9:00 p.m. with no prior planning and expect to find your way back to Baltimore in fewer than several hours and for less than hundreds of dollars. She was already tired of me, and she told me to just ask British Air to get me a taxi when I landed. Clearly she done with me, so I figured I’d just wait for my flight to London and hope for the best. Maybe they would hold the plane for me in London or pick me up in an airport vehicle and rush me to the runway like they do in the movies.

Two hours after my scheduled departure time, I boarded the plane. A very nice Brit who had permanently traded in the grey skies of London for sunny Cannes told me it was in the pilot’s hands now. I figured he was right, so I stopped worrying and started taking note of his opinions on the economy and tips for buying property on the Riviera. Investors beware: Avoid the super exclusive area of Cap Ferrat, which is now overrun by Russians building garish houses designed to show off their wealth.

When we landed in London, I rushed off the plane ten minutes before the gates were due to close for my flight to Baltimore. There was nobody waiting for me, so I rushed to fast track at passport control only to learn that the flight was closed. My heart sank. The agent directed me back to the connecting flights desk, where I waited for what seemed like an eternity while an African lady yelled repeatedly in French at a companion and the agent that she knew a better schedule for getting to Marseille through Paris. My head was screaming and all of the calm that I had found in France was gone for good.

When it was finally my turn, I explained my problem to the next British Air representative, who told me she could put me on the flight to Dulles. Here we go again. I recalled the words of the Brit on the plane telling me to get what was best for me. Dulles was not the best option, not even close. Trying to be work with the agent, I explained that I had no way of getting home from Dulles, and I suggested booking me to New York because surely there must be a flight to New York, where there should be a flight to Baltimore. Sure enough, there was a flight to New York and to Philly as well, but nobody was flying to Baltimore that night. With £3.70 in my wallet and no authorization to use my credit or debit cards in England, I started to panic at the thought of wandering the streets of London until I could get on a flight the next day. Luckily, Sandy, the only helpful British Air employee I had met that day came through for me. Not only did she give me a voucher for a place to spend the night, she put me up at the Sofitel luxury hotel connected to the airport and gave me vouchers for breakfast and dinner. She even provided an overnight kit with a t-shirt to sleep in and toiletries since it looked like I wouldn’t be getting my suitcase that day – or ever if somebody didn’t figure out that my flight had changed.

So off I went to my hotel, which had the comfiest bed I have ever slept in and the most sparkling bathroom I have ever used. I had a pasta dinner served by a Polish waitress who asked me if I needed help reading the menu as if I didn’t understand English because I didn’t have a British accent.

It was strange to be in another country on an unplanned visit while none of my friends or family knew where I was. With no financial resources, I couldn’t go out on the town, but I figured out that I could use American dollars to buy a small bottle of wine in the airport and enjoy a drink in my room. I started to enjoy my little adventure.

The following morning, I made my way down to the restaurant, where I was treated to a huge English breakfast, although the Middle Eastern host was so hard to understand that I had to ask someone in the restaurant what my breakfast voucher entitled me to eat. I was starting to wonder if I had been away from the States for so long that I was forgetting how to understand English.     

After breakfast, I gathered my few belongings and checked out of my hotel, almost sorry to leave. On a side note, I noticed a sign by the elevator indicating the location of the “Victorious Ryder Cup Press Conference.” Is it me, or does adding the word “victorious” make it sound a little arrogant? Seriously, every station in England was going on about this amazing comeback by the Europeans. Anyone attending the press conference should have been prepared enough to know who won the tournament.

No time to worry about golf tournaments when I only had five hours until takeoff. Instead, I watched cricket while I waited, and in all that time, I couldn’t figure out the game. Sorry fans, it seems like baseball for sissies to me. I’m sure that match went on long after I left London, too.

So now I’m back in the US of A and my house feels like a palace compared to my hovel in Nice. Still, I miss my tiny flat and the funky neighborhood that was my home during a most extraordinary trip. I wish that everyone could experience the beautiful villages of the South of France, and in my next few posts, I will share practical details on how to reach these towns and tips to make your euro go further should you care to make the trip. 

Back to School

Wondering where I've been lately? No, I haven't been slacking off. In fact, I've been quite busy attending French classes in Nice. If you're looking for a great way to learn and practice a language, taking a vacation at a foreign language school offers many opportunities.

The school provides affordable housing options with a host or a family, which enables you to practice the language in an everyday setting and learn first-hand about the local culture. You even have the option to pay a little extra for dinner and/or breakfast with your host.

The schools screen hosts, but some can be a nightmare, like the one who had me sleep in the living room, or the one who would only let me come out of my room for dinner, which was usually no more than a bowl of green beans or a boiled egg. However, there are some great ones, like Solange, who included my classmates in family gatherings and even went out for dinner and drinks with some of us. If you are unhappy with your host, you can always ask the school to find you another place to stay.

If you don't want to take the risk, the school can also recommend a studio apartment or nearby hotel. After a few bad experiences in the past, I opted to rent an apartment on my own, mostly because I knew exactly where I wanted to stay, and because I planned to remain in Nice after the class.

If you want to look into classes, start with EF International or Apple Languages. Use their sites to select the language you want to study, your preferred city, housing preferences and any other options. For example, I chose the program that included morning lessons and afternoon excursions.

On the first day of class, you will normally take a placement test and be placed in a class, typically no larger than ten students, based on your level of knowledge. Generally, schools don't accept beginners, but you can always take an intro class at home before you go. Most community colleges offer non-credit classes for adults.

Besides learning more about French language and culture, I was also happy to find out more about the countries where the other students live. I also enjoyed going out with them for a glass of wine after the excursions and exploring nearby villages with them on the weekend. Since most students attend  the school on their own, everyone is looking for someone to hang out with, so there's no need to worry about being lonely or bored, even if you're shy. In fact, I actually made several new friends.

Oh, and according to my certificate, I am finally ready to proceed to advanced level French. C'est bon!

Getting to the South of France

Bonjour from the South of France, my favorite place to be. Aside from the wonderfully mild climate, the beautiful colors, the delicious food and the abundance of art, it's the ideal area for travelers. You can find all sorts of accommodations in many price ranges, and the transportation system makes it easy to visit the many small villages as well as get around my favorite base of operations, Nice.

It was a beautiful afternoon in Nice.

I'm currently renting an apartment in the delightfully charming Vieux Nice (Old Nice), which dates back several hundred years. I found this little gem on www.homeaway.com and described the process of renting it in a previous post.

If you're interested in coming to Nice yourself, you are probably wondering how to get to your destination. It's actually very easy. If you're coming from another area of Europe, you can arrive by train at the station Nice Ville. From there, make a left when exiting the station and walk down a block to the tram, which makes many stops around town. Several buses run from the front of the station throughout the city. You can also pick up a cab in front of the station.

If you fly into Nice's airport on the edge of town, you can take a bus to several towns in the area as well as the buses that go to the train station and the bus station with several stops along the way. The cost is a mere 4€, and you can use the ticket for the rest of the day on the Nice tram and any Lignes d'Azur bus. If you don't want to deal with the bus, taxis cost 35-50€. Or if you're one of the many jetsetters who frequent this area, and you're heading to Monaco, you can hire a private helicopter.

Speaking of the bus, it's clean and reliable, making it the most convenient way to get around Nice and the surrounding villages. It's also remarkably cheap at only 1€ per ride, 4€ for a day pass or 15€ for a weekly pass. These passes are also valid on the Nice tram. Buy bus tickets from the driver, and buy tram tickets from the machines found at every tram stop.

Monthly passes are also available for 40€ at a Lignes d'Azure office if you are going to be in the area for more than a few weeks. For these passes, you have to bring a passport and a passport-sized photo as well as a photocopy of the passport, which you can make at the office. Why you need these items is a mystery to me because the clerk scans your passport, throws away your copy and returns the photo to you. I really wanted to ask the clerk why I had to go all the way back to my apartment for the extra photo, but I didn't want to make her mad at me, so I just kept saying merci to avoid engaging her in a conversation that could lead to a question that I was unable or unwilling to answer.

Now that I have my bus pass, I'm ready to venture out int the Sunny South. So why is a region that boasts 300 days of sun each year forecasting rain for the next six days?

5 Items You Need to Pack

Bring some plastic flatware so you can have a picnic.

You probably have a list of standard items that you pack when you’re taking a trip. Add these small items to save time and aggravation on your next journey.

Plastic flatware

When you have forks, spoons and knives, you can pick up some local bread, cheese and other goodies and have a picnic in a scenic area.

Corkscrew

What’s a picnic without some nice local wine? Just make sure you pack it in your checked luggage because corkscrews are forbidden in carry-on bags.

Grocery bags

Extra bags have several uses. You can place your dirty clothes in them to separate them from the clean clothes or use them as a beach bags or tote bags.

Medicine

You may feel fine when you leave home, but that doesn’t mean you won’t catch a cold or have an allergy attack or headache during your trip.  If you’re going to a foreign country, and you don’t speak the language, it can be a real hassle to get the medicine you need. Many countries keep any type of medication, even non-prescription, behind the counter, so you will have to explain what you need to the pharmacist. In addition, medication is different in other countries. When I went to France last year, I came down with a terrible cold, and I was frustrated to learn that there was no Ny-Quil in the entire country, and the strongest medicine available did nothing to ease my symptoms.

When you pack the cold medicine and pain reliever, be sure to throw in an extra supply of prescription medication in case your return home is delayed. Make sure you pack it in your carry-on luggage so you won’t have a problem if your checked bag is lost.

Small flashlight

As the daughter of a fireman, I learned to locate the emergency exit upon checking into a hotel and to make sure I have a flashlight in case of fire. My flashlight has also come in handy during a power failure. Sure, the light from a smartphone will help in a pinch, but if you run the phone's battery down, you will lose your phone service in addition to being stuck in the dark.   

Do you have a must-have travel item? Please share.

Live Like a Native on Vacation: Rent an Apartment

In a recent episode of Househunters International, a woman was hunting for a Paris flat that she and her husband could rent to tourists after using it for a long-term business stay. If you were wondering who would ever rent a property in another country and why, I will be glad to tell you.

View of pedestrian street and
Place Masséna from Ajoupa
apartment in Nice, France. 

I have rented four apartments in Paris when my stays lasted a week or more. For the same standard of living in hotels, I would have spent a lot more. My apartments offered amenities that a hotel did not, most notably a kitchen, which was a huge convenience at breakfast time or when I was too tired to eat out or just trying to save some money. It also gave me the opportunity to enjoy one of my favorite aspects of French life: wandering through the markets in search of fresh vegetables, cheese, baguettes and other goodies for meals. I didn’t even miss the maid service.

How to Find a Flat

You’re probably wondering where to find a list of apartments and how to avoid getting ripped off. I found my on the following websites:

• HomeAway is a reputable site recommended by several travel magazines. Renters can search the site based on all sorts or criteria, even whether the property has Internet access. If you register, you can create a list of favorites, and the site records which properties you have contacted. Best of all, the site provides protection against Internet fraud.
• HomeAway has some sister sites, including vrbo.com and Homelidays.com. While most of the properties are the same, it’s worth looking on them because you can sometimes find some additional ones.
• New York Habitat offers properties in New York, Paris, London and the South of France. Unlike HomeAway, which is not involved in agreements between renters and property owners, New York Habitat is a leasing service, so you will deal with an English-speaking agent who can provide a list of apartments based on your criteria or simply facilitate a rental agreement for an apartment you find on the website. This company also handles long-term rentals.

How to Choose the Perfect Property

A reliable website will provide an ample amount of information about the property as well as plenty of pictures. Following are some of the most important factors to consider when making your choice:

• Location: If you’re staying in a city, you don’t need to pay high rates to be in the tourist area. As long as you are close to public transportation, and it looks like a decent neighborhood, you should be fine. Beware that some listings show the center of town on the map rather than the property’s actual address. Be sure to verify the address and look it up on Google maps. You can also research the neighborhood on tripadvisor.com or other travel forums.
• Language spoken by the owner: If you are not using an agent, check the listing for languages spoken by the owner. Many of them speak English, but you could run into problems if you don’t speak the local language and the owner doesn't speak English. If the owner speaks English, the contract could still be in his native language. In that case, use Google or a free translation website to translate to English.
• Floor: Since many old buildings in Europe do not have elevators, I learned the hard way that you should always ask which floor the apartment is located on if the listing doesn't mention an elevator or indicates that it’s unsuitable for the elderly or infirm. Dragging a heavy suitcase to the fifth floor is one thing I will never do again. Also, what Europeans call the first floor, we call the second, so add one to the number you’re given.
• Floor area: Space is limited in other countries, especially in the cities, so it’s important to check photos and floor area to make sure you’ll have enough space.
• Beds: This is an important issue, especially if you are traveling with other people or a person who is not your significant other. If you’re looking at a studio, the bed may be a sofa bed. Again, check the photos closely.
• Noise level: If you’re staying in the city, it’s convenient to be close to a lot of commercial activity, but it could also make for some sleepless nights. Find out if the double glazed windows (double vitrage in French). It could make or break your trip. I always bring ear plugs just in case. 
• Air conditioning: While most American buildings are air-conditioned, this is not the case in other countries. Check the average temperatures for your destination and decide whether this amenity is necessary.
• Payment form: Most rentals require a deposit of 25 to 50 percent. Before signing a contract, make sure you can pay in the form requested, typically PayPal or a bank wire. Some apartments accept credit cards. Note that some banks don’t offer wire services. If they do, they usually charge a fee of $30 to $45 and a currency conversion fee of one to three percent of the amount wired. Owners may charge an additional fee for PayPal or credit cards.
• Security deposit. Most owners require a security deposit when you sign the lease. The amount will be mentioned in the listing. Be sure to find out how you will recover the deposit at the end of the trip. Typically the owner will give you cash when you leave. You’ll probably return to the United States after renting the apartment, and if you’re splitting the deposit among several people, it shouldn't be a big deal to spend the foreign currency on cab fare to the airport and last-minute souvenirs or to save it for a future trip. However, if you are footing the bill on your own, you’ll have to decide if it’s worth it to hang on to the cash or lose a bit of it when trading it for greenbacks.  Note that owners sometimes send a check to the renter a week after the rental, which is not convenient for foreigners.
• Additional fees: Is there a cleaning fee? Are utilities included? Are sheets and towels included?

A Few Tips on Contacting the Owner

• The best places go quickly, so find a place well in advance, especially if you are going during peak travel times, like summer, Christmas and local holidays.
• Contact several owners because some places may have been recently booked for your preferred time although the schedule says they’re available. Also, some owners don’t respond if they are busy, or if  they have booked the property.
• Don’t book with the first owner who responds if you’re not absolutely sure you want the property. It sometimes takes a few days for owners to respond. Allow at least a week for a response on a property you really want.

Another Option: Apart’hotels

If dealing with the foreign language, security deposit and payment to a stranger is too much for you, but you still want the apartment experience, try an apart’hotel, which is basically a hotel room with a kitchenette. Apart’hotels don’t offer the local charm of most privately owned apartments, but they usually accept credit card deposits, they don’t require a security deposit and there is usually someone on staff who speaks English. In addition, you can stay at most of them for a few days.

To find an apart’hotel, just do a Google search for apartment hotel in whatever city you want to visit.  If you are visiting Nice, I can recommend two:

• StudiosFloreal: located next to the tram by the main train station in the middle of the main shopping area of Jean Médecin. It’s a very lively area, but double-glazed windows block the noise. 
• Ajoupa Baie des Anglais: in an ideal location on a pedestrian street just off the beautiful Place Méssina. It’s very clean and reasonably priced, so book early because rooms go quickly.

Renting an apartment isn't for everyone. If you want to live like a native, though, it’s the best way to go. 

Where would you like to immerse yourself? 

Culture Club: Asian Pop Comes to Town

While most of the world was focused on London this weekend, there was a whole lot of activity in my neighborhood, too. With the Orioles in town, an army of orange turned out to support the team in its bid to reach the playoffs for the first time since 1997. Down the street at M &T Bank Stadium, home of the Ravens, Tottenham and Liverpool drew a more international set for their soccer match. While it wasn’t always obvious which of these events people were attending, there was no doubt about who was in town for the third big affair, the Otakon convention.

I’m not really sure what Otakon is all about, but when 31,000 teenagers in strange costumes take over the streets around the Baltimore Convention Center every year, I know it’s time for the convention. According to the Otacon website, this event is for the otaku generation, honoring anime, manga, and all facets of Asian pop culture. I don’t know what that means, but I do know that the kids are well behaved, friendly and happy to pose for pictures, so they’re alright in my book.

You have to see it to believe it, so here you go. 

6 Rules for Finding the Best Airfare

Many travelers are staying closer to home or making the long drive to their destination these days as the cost of a plane ticket becomes more unaffordable. If flying is your only option, and you don’t have wads of cash or piles of frequent flier miles, try these tips when searching for your next flight.

Use these tips if driving to your destination isn't an option. 

1. Know when to book.

Look for flights at 3:00 p.m. on Tuesday. This is when the low-cost airlines like Southwest publish their specials. The larger airlines follow suit within the next few hours. Prices tend to rise by the weekend. Rates can change quickly, and other travelers can snatch up the cheap seats, so if you find a good price, jump on it. Note that the Tuesday rule applies to domestic fares. International fares don’t seem to change on a set schedule.

Don’t book more than two to three months in advance. Rates usually fall a few months before the departure. 

2. Know where to look.

Websites like kayak.com and farecompare.com search several sites to come up with a list of available flights and prices. They can also lead you to more convenient flight schedules you wouldn’t find on an airline’s sight because they mix flights with other airlines. Note that some airlines, including Southwest, do not appear on these sites.

At airfarewatchdog.com, users can enter their closest airport to come up with a list of the best prices for flights to cities throughout the United States as well as some international cities. Users can also sign up for weekly emails with the best flight prices, many of which are unadvertised. 

3. Be flexible.

I clicked the “My dates are flexible” option on the last flight I booked, and I ended up saving more more than $1,000 by changing my departure date by two days. I can’t promise you’ll be as lucky as I was, but you can often save a decent amount of money if you’re willing to change your schedule by a few days. Tuesday and Wednesday are usually the cheapest days to fly, and the old rule about flying more cheaply if you stay over on a Saturday no longer applies.

4. Be social.

Some airlines release special offers on social media outlets like Facebook and Twitter before revealing them to the rest of the world. You can also learn about deals from your city by registering for the airline’s email list.

5. Check the schedule.

Many people buy the cheapest ticket without looking at the flight times. That’s a bad idea for a few reasons. Let’s say you want to spend a long weekend in New Orleans. You book a ticket that leaves on Friday and returns on Monday. Imagine all the fun you can have in four days in the Big Easy. In checking your itinerary, you notice that the flight arrives at 10:30 p.m. on Friday and departs at 7:00 a.m. on Monday. Add in the time it takes to travel to and from the airport, and you’ll arrive just in time for bed on Friday night, and you’ll have to be in bed just after dinner to make your early morning flight on Monday. That only gives you two days, not to mention that you’ll miss out on two nights on the town. After considering the money you’ve spent for a hotel for those two nights, it’s just a bad deal.

Transportation to and from the airport could be an issue depending on your flight times. You’re less likely to find a ride from a friend if you are flying early in the morning or late at night. That leaves expensive options like hiring a taxi or airport shuttle or parking in an airport lot. The tram near my house only costs $1.60 each way, so I try to book during its operating hours when possible. 

Direct flights are hard to find these days and are often priced much higher than those with connections.

If your flight has connections, beware of layover times. I’ll pay more to avoid a long layover, which costs me valuable time and often a good chunk of change on meals and snacks. I also pass on any itinerary with less than an hour between flights, even if they are in the same terminal, because if my first flight is late, I'll be mor likely to miss my connection and lose my luggage.

I have taken several international flights through JFK, which is the perfect storm for airport unpleasantness on the return trip. If you absolutely can’t avoid this airport, allow at least three hours between flights on the return trip. Since it’s the first port of entry in the country, all passengers must wait in long lines at Immigration, pick up their checked baggage, pass through Customs and check their baggage again. Then they must go to another terminal for their connecting flight, where they must pass through security. I have never spent less than 45 minutes in security, and they won’t send anybody to the front of the line for a flight that’s about to depart because everyone in line is facing that issue.

6. Add up the hidden costs.

Fees for checked bags, choosing seats and other services not included in the price of the ticket can add up, especially if you’re traveling as a family. Therefore, come up with a total cost before making your choice.

If you have any other tips for finding cheaper airfare, please share them here. 

Use Your Smartphone Wisely When You Travel

I recently attended a jazz concert sponsored by the city in my neighborhood’s park and decided to take pictures of the crowd enjoying the show for use on the community website. When I downloaded the photos, I was disappointed to find that most of them showed people who were more involved with their phones than they were with the neighbors or the music, hardly an advertisement for my exciting urban lifestyle.

While cell phones drive me insane when their owners use them to communicate with everyone but the people right next to them, I’m addicted to some of my iPhone apps, especially when I’m on the road, and I don’t have access to a computer.

A smartphone is handy, even when you don't have service.

If you travel overseas, you probably know that the first thing you need to do is turn off the data and roaming to avoid a huge bill. If you can find a café or hotel with Internet access, you can still take advantage of Wi-Fi to use your apps. McDonald’s offers free Wi-Fi, and the coffee wins awards in several countries, so it’s a good option in a pinch.

There’a an app for that. There are lots of apps, many of them free, that can simplify travel. Following are some of favorites: 

• Most airlines offer apps that enable you to check in and get updated flight information. Some allow you to download a boarding pass for certain airports. I would still recommend a paper ticket after witnessing a TSA agent at JFK tell a passenger who had waited an hour in line for a plane that was due to take off in 15 minutes that the smartphone reader wasn’t working, so she had to go back and get a paper ticket.   
• TripIt (available for iPhone, iPad, Android, Blackberry, Windows Phone 7) enables users to forward their confirmation emails for plane and hotel reservations to the app, so all of the vital information is available in one place. If the information is a small hotel or other vendor not supported by the TripIt system, the user can manually enter the information.
• If you will be in a city that has a metro system, MetrO is a necessity. Plug in the starting and ending stop or landmark and the time that you want to travel to find out which metro, tram or bus to take and where to transfer. Best of all it’s a downloadable database, so you don’t need WI-FI or a data plan. Just beware that some city names are presented in their native language, e.g., Prague is Praha, and Vienna is Wien.  Check the website http://metro.nanika.net/index.php?p=Z  for the list of smartphones supported, as the company continues to add more.
• A foreign dictionary always comes in handy if you are going to a country where English is not the native language. There are free versions for many languages, but like most apps, the paid versions offer more. Before buying, be sure to find out whether Internet access is required if you won’t be using your data plan.
• A currency converter is a big help when you are shopping and trying to figure out how much you are spending on a souvenir, or when you're at the ATM trying to figure out how much money you need. I use GlobeConverter Free because I can open it before I leave or when I have Wi-Fi access to download current exchange rates, and it will use the last rate downloaded to make the calculations.  
• To stay in touch with the folks back home without spending an arm and a leg, download Pinger's free texting program. If you have Wi-Fi, you can text anyone in the U.S. for free. Pinger also offers free incoming calls from any U.S. phone and free outgoing calls to any mobile phone in the U.S. that also has this app.
• Walking tours can offer advice on what to see and how to get there. Again, find out whether Internet access is required if you won’t be using your data plan. Rely on user reviews to choose the best guide. Some of the popular travel guides, such as Frommer’s and Rick Steves, are available for a fee, but they are cheaper than the printed books and certainly less weighty. Remember that most hotels and tourist spots overseas can provide a free map as well as advice on the best places to visit, so don’t rule out the locals as some of the most useful resources.
• Foursquare, available for most smartphones, is helpful if you can use your data plan and you want to know what’s worth seeing in the vicinity. Although I don’t really care to be the mayor of any of the places I visit, I was happy to let it lead me through the Garden District of New Orleans to the homes of some celebrities and the resting place of Lestat, the main character in several Anne Rice books.
• Living Social offers bargains in your town and throughout the world. PayPal also offers an app called Where that provides information on local offers based on your GPS location.

Know where to go. While a map app can be a great travel tool, it’s still a good idea to print out a map that shows the location of your hotel before you leave. While I’m on this topic, research the best way to go from the airport to wherever you’re staying by doing a search for “transportation from whatever airport to whatever town.” You can compare prices between shuttles, taxis and whatever modes of transportation available and learn how and where to buy tickets. You will probably be tired and disoriented when you arrive, so it won’t be a good time to start figuring out where you are and where you need to be, especially if you won’t be in an English-speaking country.

A photo of your luggage doesn't have to be a work of art. 

Take a picture. You’ve probably heard that you should keep a copy of your passport in a separate bag. But what of you lose your bag? What if you lose your passport and you just can’t get to your bag? As a simple safeguard, take a picture of your passport and email it to yourself. You can also take a picture with your cell phone. If the phone or the camera uses a flash, make sure your photo, the passport number and expiration date are still visible. As I mentioned in my last entry, use your phone to take a picture of your suitcase just before you leave for your trip. That way, if the airline loses it, you can show someone exactly what it looks like. 

I hope you get a lot of use out of your phone while you’re away, but I also hope that you don’t become so involved with it that you miss out on all of the exciting activities and scenery around you. And if you come across a must-have app, please let me know. 

It’s in the Bag: 5 Packing Tips for Simpler Travel

Are you one of the masses heading out for summer vacation over Independence Day week? If you’re traveling by plane, train or another form of public transportation, you will be fighting for space to stow your bags and most likely carrying them a fair distance. These tips can help you keep your luggage safe and your sanity intact. 

1. Reduce your baggage allowance. If you plan to get around by train or another form of public transportation, be sure to pack light. Instead of heavy jeans, ladies can pack lighter skirts or dresses along with tights for cooler weather. Remember, black goes with everything. Shoes are heavy and take up a lot of room, so limit yourself to two pairs. When it’s cool, I bring a pair of flat boots and a dressier pair with low heels, and they take me everywhere. In the warmer months, I wear a pair of black Mary Janes that take me from day into night along with sandals or flip flops for the beach or pool.Toiletries are also heavy, so pack travel-size bottles of shampoo, lotions and other products that your hotel won’t provide. To help prevent wrinkles and to make more room in my suitcase, I stuff small piles of clothes in clear vacuum-pack bags that flatten to remove the  air. If you can’t find them at Walmart, Target or Bed, Bath and Beyond, fold clear plastic shopping bags under for the same effect.
2. Keep the weight on your back to take a load off your mind. Do you really need to be told to pack your camera, laptop, jewelry and other valuables in your hand luggage? Sure, it can get heavy, especially if your camera is as hefty as mine, but if you don’t carry it with you, just kiss it good-bye before boarding your flight. While you’re packing your carry-on, be sure to throw in any medication you will need for the entire trip, and add a little extra in case your return home is delayed.  Don’t forget aspirin and over-the counter drugs you may need, such as cold and allergy medicine because foreign pharmacies aren’t always easy to navigate.
3. Bag it. The type of suitcase you use makes a big difference. Since I’m petite, and I usually take the train from place to place when I travel abroad, I have learned the hard way that a standard suitcase is not easy to load on and off a train and even more difficult to drag up the steps in the many metro and train stations that don’t have an elevator. Instead, I use a duffel bag on wheels. Not only is it lighter, but it’s not as deep, so you don’t have to lift it as high off the ground when you are climbing steps. Even better, mine has handles on each end, so I can use both arms to pick it up rather than lifting from the top.
4. Stand out. After many hours of exhausting travel to your destination, you will look forward to reuniting with your suitcase. Make sure it stands out, especially if it looks a lot like everyone else’s bag. Colorful luggage tags and ribbons tied around the handle can help. I credit my dad, the cleverest person I’ve ever known, with the idea of painting distinctive marks on both sides of my bag. Any kind of wall paint will do. I’ve also used acrylic paint. While you’re making your bag easy to identify, be sure to write your name and the address of the place where you’re staying along with a phone number where you can be reached on a piece of paper and place it in the bag. I include my cell phone number, along with its country code, especially when I stay at a hotel. I always lock my bag with a TSA-approved lock, so I place the sheet in an outside pocket.
5. Shoot it. Just before leaving on my trip, I use my cell phone to take a picture of my suitcase. That way, if the airline loses it – yes, it’s been known to happen – I can show someone exactly what it looks like. 

If you have any good packing tips, feel free to share.