Eat and Drink Your Way Through Old Nice

As the days grow shorter and colder at my home in the mid-Atlantic, I fondly reminisce about my time in my tiny apartment in Old Nice just a few months ago. I miss feeling like a part of the neighborhood and  wandering through the tiny streets, discovering new shops, galleries and cafés along the way. If you are lucky enough to visit Nice yourself, be sure to make time to visit Vieux Nice, the old town, where you’ll find some of the tastiest food and wine in the world. And a lot of it is even good for you.

When someone refers to Niçoise cuisine, you probably think of Niçoise salad; however, that’s just one dish on a long list of this city’s specialties. While Nice is located in the heart of the lavish French Riviera, its cuisine evolved when the region was controlled by Italy, and the majority of its inhabitants were poor. Therefore, the primary ingredients are grown or caught in the area, and they are always fresh. Local olives and olive oils, cheese, zucchini, tomatoes, herbs de Provence and fish are easy to find at the daily market on the Cours Saleya.

Where to go

Beside the market, here is a list of some of the can’t-miss spots that will give you a true taste of Niçoise cuisine.

Alziari

Alziari Moulin à Huile, 14 rue St. Francis de Paule (near the Opera)

This shop is known for its olive oil, which has been produced for more than 150 years. In addition, you can find honey, spices and wine here.

Coté-Vin

This wine shop is next to Alziari, so be sure to stop in and buy a few ice bags, a thick plastic bag that doubles as portable wine chiller and is perfect for picnics and parties. It makes a great souvenir for friends who like wine, and it’s easy to pack.

Bistrot Antoine, 27 rue de la Préfecture, (0)4 93 85 29 57 (past the Palais de Justice)

This small restaurant is frequented by the locals, which usually means you can’t go wrong. The menu is definitely not geared toward vegetarians, but there are some fish dishes. Prices are reasonable, and it’s always crowded, so reservations are a must. The restaurant is closed Sunday and Monday.

Les Distilleries Idéales, 24 rue de la Préfecture

This is one of the best happy hour spots in Nice. Small tables outside are the ideal place to sip on a draft beer or a glass of local wine and watch the world go by. Inside, you’ll find large televisions airing sports in a pub-like atmosphere.

Caves Caprioglio, 23 rue de la Préfecture

If you’re looking for a great bargain, visit this wine shop. Bring in your own bottle, and have it filled with the house rosé or red for only €1.90. Speaking of rosé, this isn’t the rosé that’s considered undrinkable by connoisseurs. In fact, it’s a specialty of the region. If you like wine, be sure to try some while you’re here.  

Pizza Pili, rue du Collet and 24 Rue Benoît Bunico 

Nothing goes with cheap wine like cheap pizza, and Pizza Pili doesn’t disappoint. For €6.50, you can get a large pizza loaded with toppings. There are about a dozen varieties, including my favorite, the Provencal, which overflows with vegetables. Like other pizzerias in Italy and France, this dish has thin crust and creamy cheese, and I find it more delicious than the American version. If you plan to go to Pizza Pili, be sure to avoid the rush around 8:00, the traditional French dinner time. Also, there are only a few tables on the street, so it’s best to count on taking the pizza back to your hotel.

Fenocchio, Place Rosetti
Known as the best ice cream in Nice, Fenocchio boasts more than 100 flavors ranging from the everyday chocolate and vanilla to the exotic, including basil, cactus, oregano, beer and zucchini. Enjoy your treat and the view of St. Réparate cathedral, which dates back to the eleventh century, in this bustling but beautiful square.

Chez Juliette

Chez Juliette, 1 rue Rosetti, (0)4 93 92 68 47

The food at this tiny restaurant off Place Rosetti is only matched by its charm. I passed this place quite often since it was around the corner from my apartment, and it was always packed. When I stopped in to eat shortly after it opened one night, the outside dining area was already full, so I settled for a table inside, but I was not disappointed, thanks to the shabby chic décor and impeccable service. The menu included local favorites, including petit farcis, a dish made of vegetables stuffed with meat. Whether you’re with friends or on a date, Chez Juliette this is a delight in dining. Just be sure you arrive when it opens at 7 or make a reservation.

Local flavor

You can find several restaurants in Old Nice that serve local dishes. Here is what to look for:

Petits farcis: vegetables, such as red peppers, eggplant and zucchini stuffed with ground meat, parmesan cheese and olive oil.

Tarte aux blettes or tourte de blettes: tarte made with swiss chard, a vegetable similar to spinach and kale. You can order it either sucré or salée. Sucré means that it’s sweet, which makes a delicious dessert. Salée is salty, making it a delicious appetizer or main dish that is similar to spinach pie found on Greek menus.

Socca bread: made of chickpea flour and olive oil, it’s simple and filling.    

Pissaladière: an appetizer similar to pizza, it is topped with anchovies and caramelized onions.

Tapenade: puréed or finely chopped olives, capers, anchovies and olive oil. Spread it on bread and serve as an hors d’oeuvre. A similar recipe is caviar d’aubergines, which is made of puréed eggplant and olive oil, but has no caviar. 

Bon appétit!